Alex Walker's "Serian"

Laetoli; a new Elephant and a new year

2012-01-08T10:00:00.000-08:00

A new Elephant for a new year, born on the 2nd of january and filmed on the 3rd, named Laetoli after the place of her birth.

Laetoli is asite in Tanzania, dated to the Plio-Pleistocene and famous for its hominin footprints, preserved in volcanic ash (Site G). The site of the Laetolifootprints is located 45 km south of Olduvai gorge. Excavated by archaeologists Louis and Mary Leaky, the site is famous for its hominin footprints, preserved in volcanic ash andunearthed in 1978. “The Laetoli Footprints” received significant recognition bythe public, providing convincing evidence of bipedalism in Pliocene hominidsbased on analysis of the impressions. The footprints and skeletal structureexcavated at Laetoli showed clear evidence that bipedalism preceded enlargedbrains in hominids. Although it is highly debated, it is believed the threeindividuals who made these footprints belonged to the species Australopithecusafarensis. Along with footprints were other discoveries includinghominin and animal skeletal remains and Acheulean artifacts.

Christmas and New Year in the Bush

2012-01-02T01:12:00.000-08:00

The Serian festivities came and went very quickly this year but just to give you all a few highlights:

Christmas Eve was spent out on the great Mara plains watching the sun go down, sitting around a lovely bush fire before heading back to camp for a scrummy roast ham dinner.

Sundowners overlooking the escarpment

On Christmas Day we celebrated in the evening with Christmas carols, Crackers, Christmas lights and a Roast Turkey.

Christmas breakfast on the Mara River outside Ngare

Chrstmas table been laid out

Elegant looking table

Our African Christmas Tree

Santa at the bottom of our tree

Boxing Day we had the pleasure of a magnificent sighting of Zawadi right outside Ngare who was very relaxed and felt right at home with us there watching her.

Our resident Genet came to vist on Christmas day to see what Santa had bought - beef fillet! :)

Roisin getting a first class viewing of Zawadi

As elegant as ever

Then we skip a few days and it takes us to New Year’s Eve. We tried to do a dinner out under the stars but alas that did not last long before the rains chased us inside.

Ngare deck all set up before the rains came down

This however this did not dampen our moods and we set everything up inside and continued there and had a mouth-watering beef fillet.

After dinner we had some Moran’s come in and do a little singing and dancing for the guests. They danced their way around the table before we all chinked our bubbly together and said Happy New Year (or Mwaka Mpya Wenye Mafanikio) and lit our sparkles to write 2012 in the air.

Wishing you all out there a year filled with love, happiness and full of adventure! Happy 2012 – bring on the good times! J

What an encounter

2011-12-22T06:05:00.000-08:00

It was a fine morning there was not a cloud in the sky. The birds where chirping all around and actually everything was going on quite fine however there was something lingering nearby.

Just outside tent 7

Craig with only a rock for protection

What was that noise?

As I took John his insulation tape that he had asked for, the monkeys where making quite a scene up in the trees, just outside tent number seven. After a short discussion we thought that we had better go and investigate the scene. As we where silently sneaking through the bush we both picked up a rock just in case the situation was to turn ugly on us. As we carefully approached one bush in particular we were presented with a deep bellowing growl, which just seemed to penetrate strait through the body; resulting in shivers all the way down the spine. A few seconds later after we had all had some time too thankfully calm down I heard a roar of laughter from John.

Craig with fresh leopard tracks

Fresh track

Set of leopard tracks

What an experience we had, where else in the world could you run into a face to face encounter with the resident leopard (Panthera Pardus) only 100 meters from the tent.

Serian Staff Fun Run

2011-12-05T23:51:00.001-08:00

It was a hot sunny day on the 1^st of December until just after half four when the dark clouds started rolling over. We were quite thankful for this, otherwise it would have been one hot 5KM run.

The course

The staff were eager to get out there and show us how it is done! We had about 25 participants ranging from old to young, men and women. The start was down at the football field below camp. Excitement was building up until Adrian gave the go ahead and the race was on! We did a loop around the Serian hill, through some wet and muddy gullies and up the hill near where we have sundowners before heading back down to the football field to finish off.

Front runners

Over the hill

Support at the end

Soit – one of our night watchmen- did the 5KM track in a very impressive 18 minutes, followed closely by Okech –our tailor- and Marule – chief. First lady was given to Caroline who was not too far behind the front runners.

Soit - 1st place

Okech - 2nd place

Marule - 3rd place

1st Lady - Caroline (being supported to the finish line)

A very good run all in all, and the Serian spirit was flying high. Thanks to all who participated. J

Team picture

Attempting Silver

2011-11-24T23:08:00.001-08:00

Two members of our Serian guiding team are attempting to achieve their silver level guiding certificate, Jacob Masemo and Jonathan Koikai.

Jacob Masemo - Head Mechanic & Guide

Jacob Masemo our chief mechanic and general all around handyman has worked at Serian for a good number of years. He is keen to try and progress his understanding of bush life and challenge the other guides in to giving his clients the fullest experience whilst on safari in Kenya.

Jonathan getting ready to show you how its done!

Jonathan Koikai a local has worked at Serian for the last 6 good years. Hard working, cheerful and determined to give the guests the finest possible experience whilst visiting our secluded and stunning private Mara North Conservancy.

Currently immersed in a tough refresher course at the renowned Koyaki Guiding School they sit their Silver Level examinations on the 7^th December in Nairobi. We wish them all the best of luck!

THE ELEPHANT WITH A SORE LEG.

2011-11-07T05:39:00.000-08:00

Our scouts – who patrol our 4000acres of walking land - notified us that there was an injured elephant on the hillside below our treehouse The Elephant was having problems with intense swelling on its front left leg.

The elephant resting his sore leg

The two MNC rangers that reside in camp thought it was the same one that a vet had already attended to because a MNC patrol car had last seen that Elephant close to one of the crossing points about 3Kms upstream from camp and they hadn’t seen it the day that we were informed about its whereabouts.

We then decided to go up to investigate the situation that the elephant was in - Nick, Ole Ngume, two MNC rangers, and all the scouts.

Save the Elephants came to support

When we found it was limping badly and was not moving much. Over a course of three days the Elephant had only moved only about 700 meters. The MNC rangers had informed the headquarters about its whereabouts and its condition of the front left leg.

Checking his leg

On the 25^th October I was given a report from the MNC rangers that there was a vet coming to try and help the elephant. When the vet arrived we were waiting about 300 meters from the Elephant so that he could get a good shot for the dart to tranquilize it so it could be treated. The vet recognized the elephant and knew that it was the same one he had only recently treated.

Almost done with the check up

They gave it a large dose of anti inflammatory injections although the injury is still unknown, the vet and his assistant thinks it has a broken upper leg, although they also say it may possibly be a snake bite! Let’s hope that the elephant soon recovers from his injury.

By Nick Wootton

SERIAN GAME REPORT - August 2011

2011-09-18T07:24:00.000-07:00

They came, they went, they came back again and now they have gone again…

it's been a different migration this year, the wildebeest have been rather confusing with their movement and pattern of travel. We had some really great crossings at the beginning of the month and then they moved back into the northern Serengeti – reports from Alex and the crew in Serian's Serengeti camp mention they had some huge herds of wildebeest around camp mid august. The 50,000 strong loita population were around mara north conservancy mid august which was great for everyone around here.

Gathering and crossing the Mara River

Croc getting a tasty snack

Cat sightings continue to be fantastic all around, the River pride crossed over the Mara River and were often seen hanging around Ngare Serian towards the end of the month – keeping clients awake at night with their roaring and noise. An unique and iconic sound of the bush – the Lion lions roar it rumbles through your diaphragm while you sit around a evening fire or lie in bed trying to get to sleep!

On the hunt...

Lilly the Lioness and her cubs are doing well and we have all had great sightings of her and her cubs the last month. With the controlled viewing that is the norm in the private Mara North Conservancy it makes a huge difference to be one of only the lucky few. In Nkorombo we hosted a large YPO group from Turkey in the tented camp where we had some of the most amazing viewing, with Black Rhino every day, Lions everywhere and some really magical Leopard. To top it all however we had the most special sighting of Caracal. not just one but a pair. Definitely my highlight this month. The two caracals live just outside Serian’s Nkorombo mobile camp where we had several sightings, extremely rare and not often seem even by guides who are out everyday.

Beautiful Caracal seen near Nkorombo

The weather has been good to us again this month, with a few big storms along the escarpment at Serian the grass is looking very green and the Mara River is well up. We are all hoping for a good September and look forward to hosting you and witnessing some more remarkable wildlife in this very special environment.

‘’Denis and Dominic were wonderful guides who spotted everything we could have asked for. Some highlights include: lion cubs, lions eating a fresh kill, a crocodile chomping down on a wildebeest, a leopard, baby elephants and giraffe… too many more to write.’’ Stephanie and Lowell – San Francisco. August 2011-09-04

Fire & Rain

2011-08-02T06:46:00.000-07:00

July in the Serengeti was a month of sweeping bush fires and stormy afternoon rain! Late one evening heading into camp stopped by the roadside to watch a bushfire light the sky with colourful magenta hues. That morning we woke to a broad front of billowing white smoke obscuring the sun, crackling as the moisture boiled and steamed bursting the fast drying grass and consuming it in flames. All hands on deck as every available person in camp policed the firebreak surrounding camp. A car despatched to the ranger post to enjoin their support. Some judicious back burning and a lot of swatting, coughing and hacking in the oxygen starved air. Only moments before resembling swaying stalks of a wheat field moving to the rythmn of Hans Zimmers “Gladiator” soundtrack. The blanket of white smoke clearing to reveal the bare charred landscape. Shadows appear overhead and massive Marabou storks swoop in to take immediate advantage of the crisp burnt frogs, grasshoppers and other delicious offerings. A couple of weeks later and following some strong afternoon rains the grass has raised its head once more. Delicate shoots of fresh green pushing through the nitrogen enriched carpet of ash. Herds soon followed and they surround camp at night munching on the succulent new growth.

One of the sights people particularly hope to see is the wildebeest crossing the Mara River, most likely between July and November. It's an impressive sight to see hundreds of thousands of animals plunging into fast flowing water and braving some very large crocodiles in the process. That said, actually finding a crossing is about being in the right place at the right time. Largely a matter of both luck and patience as a herd may look as though they're about to cross, only to decide on an apparent whim to turn round and go home.

Pushed around by Lion and poacher alike, the larger herds wend their way back and forth along the banks of the murky Mara waters. Drama and Trauma intertwine as the young fall thirsty and rush to the rivers edge. Downstream smiling dragonesque crocodiles wait for the herds to decide whether or not the grass really is greener on the other side. Barking Zebra vie with laughing Hippo calling to their cousins on the opposite bank. Back and forth the swaying wildebeest roam. Hesitant! Unsure, uncertain and shy they walk away from the rivers edge, moments later turning and heading once more to the rivers edge. A youngster rushes thirstily to the edge; others break ranks and join the little one slaking their thirst. Buoyed by the decision yet more leap in and head for the other bank the river fanning them out in a wide arc as they power to the other side. The volume rises and chattering herds push forward from the rear the momentum solidly in favour of crossing the river now.

Atthe northern reaches of the Nyamalumbwa’s we were stopped to watch some Zebraplaying in the springs when two Buffalo Bulls several hundred yards awaystarted a tussle. Lasting no longer than a couple of minutes you wereimmediately aware of the raw power emanating from these two “Brigadiers”!Primed and ready to impose their will, they stepped back and crashed together;releasing again to pit the solid design of their hardened bosses against eachother. Arm wrestles be dammed! Their necks arched. Bent back like the curve ofa taughtly strung bow they powered into each other. The younger of the twobreaking and stretching out to launch of in a lolloping run as the elderstatesman sought to ram home his advantage, a bone crunching broadside charge.

In Africa there is a saying

“When two giants fight, onlythe grass suffers!”

Serian Game Report - July 2011

2011-08-02T01:01:00.000-07:00

Wildlife and sightings for July has been great once again, the migration has started and there has been Wildebeest all around us, came into Kenya bit earlier than most were expecting the first crossing was on 8^th July and since then many big crossings of up to 2000 animals have been seen crossing the mara river, Have had reports that there are still more to come which is fantastic. Let’s hope they continue to cross and give us all the experience that we often dream about viewing.

Last month the River pride of lions were around Serian and the sighting were fantastic, this month we had Zwardi (stunning female leopard) hanging around the camp giving guests great picture opportunities.

Zawadi admiring the views

A Cheli and Peacock pride Female lioness called Lilly (www.livingwithlions.org ) has some young cubs, they were see for the first time at the end of July – William ( Head Serian guide) was the first to sight the little ones – fingers crossed that they survive and grown into strong healthy lions.

Lilly moving her cub

Still on the move

Had a rare sighting of a side stripped Jackal in the Reserve this month as well, it was Jacob who sighted the jackal – definitely a good month for William and his team of Serian guides.

Side Stripped Jackal

The weather has seemed to friendly to us this month, had a few showers at the beginning otherwise its been dry and warm during the day – the grass is still plentiful in the triangle and reserve so the wildebeest have plenty to feed on.

‘’and thank-you to Zwardi for keeping us awake’’ Mel Evans July 2011

Ballooning over the Mara

2011-07-27T06:06:00.000-07:00

The 4am start is immensely worth it as you climb up and over the canopy of trees that follow the Masai Mara River and you look out at miles and miles of beautiful Africa. Everyone so thrilled at what can be seen below, the hippos, buffalo, elephants and much much more.

The balloon being heated up

There is something astounding as you go floating along in stillness of the morning over the vast expanses of the Masai Mara, directed only by the wind. There is a magical sensation as you watch the sun rising and you look over this beautiful untouched piece of paradise where we are so fortunate to live and work.

View of the Mara Triangle as we heat up

sun starting to pop up over the horizon

sunrise

Then there is the landing which changes from the smooth silence to being bumpy and full of surprises. “Two minutes to landing, hold on and head back” are our instructions. Running through my mind is will we hit a termite mound, is there an Aardvark hole that we may land in, and bones that we may bounce over or will we end up on top of the termite mound? It was the latter but a lot less potholes than what I was expecting.

The winding Mara River

Our balloon shadow over the long tall grass

Gorgeous views

All aboard

and landed!

What an epic way to see the Mara!

Back to the River.

2011-07-12T23:18:00.000-07:00

We woke up this morning to find a herd of elephant on our doorstep. A concerted effort by the crew under the direction of long time friend and excellent guide John Moller, a lot of back and forth by Mzee Yusuf and his trusty old truck and some "colourful language" and Serian's Serengeti is once again set up in the northern Serengeti 3 kms west of the Kogatende airstrip. The savannah is rich fully recovered from the large burns of last year and looking like a sea of grass.

Swaying grass in the Lamai Wedge

The herds are east of us and closing in by the minute the first crossings over the Mara River heading north happened yesterday and we have been seeing great cats. Leopard, Lion and Cheetah perched on the rocks and anthills surveying the swaying savannah. Some Soldier ants played on the road and then some more appeared on the horizon!

Some Ants!

More Ants?

Several small herds have already headed north into the Masai Mara by way of the sand river closer to the Nyamalumbwas and Bologonja. Two weeks ago we were hearing reports of small herds heading into Keekerok. In the Lamai Wedge which sits below the Mara Triangle we have been seeing large herds of topi and some zebra which have filtered down from the Mara North and Olare Orok conservancies.

Masha & Chololo with Guy and Aunty Noe

Female Cheetah in the Lamai wedge looking out over the Mara River

We expect the herds to filter through along the valleys beside us in the next couple of days on their journey north. Lots of grass to munch their way through without a doubt! The hippo have no idea what is in store for them as the mega herds wend their way ever closer. The River looks like such a peaceful space right now!

A couple of little charmers Thomas and Annette

Sundown over the Mara. Let the games begin!

looking North into the familiar landscape of the Mara Triangle

Sexy Simba’s at Sundowners

2011-06-22T23:34:00.000-07:00

Ajani and Maskio on "honeymoon" , sundowners in the background

Last night we went out for a sundowner at “Miti Moja” with a team of energetic photographers. What a sundowners it was! There were two lions –Ajani and Maskio- on “honeymoon” straight in front of us! And not only that, there was another lioness just over the ridge that we were on – if you stood on a rock you could see the blond beauty, Kibibi. These sexy simba’s are part of the River Pride who are commonly seen in our area of the Mara North Conservancy. Not a bad day in the office! Well let’s hope that in three months time the “honeymoon” was a success and we can catch a glimpse of the little cubs.

Kibibi looking towards Miti Moja
Pictures by Sara Blackburn

Migaration Images

2011-06-21T23:53:00.000-07:00

I have found a strong connection for few minutes whilst we put out our Serengeti Camp in the North. With some quite long grass and the wildebeeste starting to feed in. John and karen are on the ground whilst i kick around arusha getting the wine list sorted out! As it happens I was sat cruising through the web, when an old friend of ours Gaz Lindop shared a link to Will & Matt Burrard-Lucas blog blog.burrard-lucas.com

I met with them last year when they were staying at Sayari in the northern serengeti and were on the way to spend some time at Serian in the mara. I wanted to share with you their amazing sequence of timelapses, a study of the wildebeest migration crossing the rivers most of which were shot in the Serengeti.

New Serian Tents

2011-06-07T00:42:00.000-07:00

Over the last few months there has been plenty of hard work going on behind the scenes with designing and re-designing the new-fangled tents that are coming to Serian. There has also been a lot of solid manual work with preparing the sites for the tents – new designs, expanding the original decks, and making new ones! Who thought the Mara was all plains and no rocks!?

To date we have successfully put up two new tents (number 6 and number 2) and are expecting to put up another four by the end of the month. Two of the coming tents will be a family unit with a gorgeous deck between the two so that families can enjoy their magical safari together.

A big thank you to all those who were involved in preparing the sites, getting the tents designed, up and giving Serian a spanking new look!

What is the relationship between Serian’s hot water and elephants?

2011-05-03T06:51:00.000-07:00

Can anyone guess the connection between our hot water and elephants?

No?

Well let me tell you the connection: we have numerous elephants in and around camp that need roughly 350kg of food a day per elephant. As a result they tend to knock down quite a lot of trees, but only end up eating one or two fruits or branches off it. Now we have all this dead wood lying around.

Dilemma.

Those of you have been to Serian might know that we use wood burners to heat up each individual room so that you can have an abundance of hot water all day and night, therefore we go around and collect it for our hot water systems.

Now you know the connection we can say thank you to the elephants for their kind service. J

Roisin, May 2011

My first school day in the Mara

2011-04-11T09:37:00.000-07:00

At the beginning of this month, Sara Blackburn, better known as Mama Simba, asked me along on a visit to the local Ololomei Primary School in the Mara North conservancy.

Sara is the project manager of the ‘Living with Lions’ project, based at Serian Camp. It is an organisation that carries out science – based conservation in Kenya, monitoring predator populations and working with local communities and schools to promote co-existence of people and wildlife.

Since working and living in Serian I’ve been asking myself many times is all of what I see true or ‘make believe’.

Having breakfast while watching giraffe, a three course meal on the African plains watching the sun go down, enjoying a hot outdoor bubble bath, taking a cup of tea with fighting hippos in the background, falling asleep with the sound of roaring lions…

When arriving that morning at the school I asked myself the same question… is all of this real?

Two wooden buildings where the rain can seep through, another building in concrete but still under construction and one big tree that provide shade for about 50 kids for kindergarten class…. No playground, no colourful posters on the wall, hardly any teaching material, kids sitting on the floor or sharing a bench with 3 other kids and holding on to their only pencil afraid of losing it.

From working in tourism for many years, I can tell you honestly I have no teaching background. When walking into the first classroom I was probably as nervous, shy, anxious and curious as the 35 pair of brown eyes that were looking at me.

As it was our first visit to the school, we had short introductions in every class. Some colouring was done (letters of alphabet which can be used later as a teaching in the lower grades).

Soon it was lunchtime and the children orderly waited for their turn to receive a nutritious lunch prepared and served by one of the local village woman. Ololomei Primary School is part of the School Feeding Program by providing food to the school. They hope that more children will attend school… even when they have to walk more than 5 km each way to get to school.

To break the ice in the afternoon, to make some serious fun and to put a big smile on their
(and our) faces we ended up singing the good, old classic… ‘Head, shoulders, knees and toes’.

In the long term we hope to involve Serian staff more in the project, maybe organise a “career day’ or invite some of the kids on a real game drive.

The fundi’s (workmen) from the workshop already received our order for goalposts, blackboards, abacuses and much more.

The coming weeks we will return regularly to make more teaching aids with the kids and we’ll decorate the walls of the new concrete classrooms.

When you live and work at Serian Camp you have lots of experiences. Some of them fade away at the end of the day, others a picture to remember the event, some are burnt in my memory… but some experiences will be captured in my heart forever!

I’ll never forget my first school day in the Masai Mara!

For more information on the Lion project, you can check the website or follow the Preditor Project blog.

Kristel Ottoy

February 2011

PS... Appologies for the lack of pictues (slow internet but they are on Facebook) and for the delay of this blog! Roisin

Someone special…John Msungu

2011-03-16T08:48:00.000-07:00

At Serian there are about 45 people permanently employed, some of them went to school, some learned the job on the spot, others followed a training course… but one person sticks out.

We feel proud that we are able to create a job opportunity for handicapped people. Msungu started his job at Serian in 2006.

He is born mute, and due to his handicap he was not able to get proper education, but learnt several tasks while working at Serian and continues to do so.

And sure enough he has several tasks, from taking the rubbish out and cleaning, to looking after a little birds nest hidden away above the kitchen sink, clean veggies, help with salads and other cooking, to making our scrumptious fresh daily bread, scones and delicious muffins for tea time.

He is always eager to learn, help somebody or to make a joke with a colleague. When he smiles, his eyes light up the whole room. He loves a good laugh and when we sit in the office we can hear and recognize his laugh.

Because of limited communication skills, his job is back of the house in the kitchen; guests hardly ever get a chance to meet him.

So now, dear Msungu, you’re on our blog and everybody can see who you are and read in what a unique way you contribute in making sure every guest has an incredible safari experience.

Roisin and Kristel

The story of the resident Boomslang & the weaver

2011-03-01T01:17:00.000-08:00

The African savannah is a hotspot to see all sorts of weaver birds.

Weavers are creative nest builders, who hang their nest upside down, mostly secure enough to protect from predators.

The African savannah is also home to many snakes... Boomslangs are one of them, a large snake, with distinct head and very large eyes with round pupils. Their colours vary between juvenile and adult male & female.

We rarely see Boomslangs at Serian Camp, a dangerous but very shy snake that prefers to stay hidden away.

Weavers are already very noisy birds but one day they were really chirping away very loud, this drew the attention of Serian staff and guests around the deck area.

That sunny noon, just after lunch, we had the chance to see a unique hunt. It crawled gently along the branch of the tree, towards the nest, trying to find its way in. It had managed to get past all the angry pecking weavers and slid into the nest - while the rest of his body was wrapped around the nest - to find a scrumptious baby weaver. She swallowed that up inside the nest but decided to go for seconds and in a blink of an eye it struck again... and had the second little weaver betweens its jaws injecting venom into it.

By this stage the counter attack was made by adult weavers, giving the snakes a few nasty pecks, so much as to make the snake come out of the nest with the second baby weaver in-between its jaws.

After a struggle between the Boomslang and several weavers, the snake had to give up and let go of her pray... the little weaver fell down on the path, a few meters below.

All help was too late for the bird, which bled to death, as the venom of the Boomslang, prevented the blood from clotting. The amount of venom injected by the Boomslang was only very small, but so was our little bird.

And although the beautiful snake missed out on his seconds, I couldn’t stop feeling sorry for the little weaver.

Kristel Ottoy

Jan 2011

It’s all about the game

2011-02-09T00:14:00.000-08:00

Since a couple of days I noticed a change of atmosphere in camp. With no guest in either Serian and Ngare it almost felt like a certain tension was building up in the air.

Some of the staff didn’t have their usual smiley faces, they seemed to be more focused and concentrated.

Way in the back behind the workshop I could hear the occasional whistle going of, and lots of yelling going on.

I soon found out that there was a good reason for all this action. The Mara Football season was soon to begin.

The playing field just along the Mara River was prepared for the opening match, goal posts were double checked. From the camp a bag of white ashes (or was it flour?) was brought down to help draw the lines.

Changing rooms? A big tree and a small bush will do just fine…

The wildlife didn’t seem to mind either and respected a safe distance. I think I even heard some hippos cheering in the back, vervet monkeys supporting from the trees and giraffes sticking out their neck for the best view.

After a bright start, the Serian team didn’t progress as well as hoped… quickly a few position changes were made and things changed for the positive.

Michael, head of the mess, made some great moves and got through the defence of Mara Timbo Camp more than once, ….

Their players didn’t seem to be intimidated by those moves, nor by the screaming from the Side lines (… some female staff got a bit too much into the game).

Osono, our little, tough, star player from Serian, a great future ahead of him, had a fabulous tactic game. Assisted by Murule in the back, they seemed to rule over the field.

Second half of the game, everything changed, pressure came on, decisions were made, …

Now it was all eyes on Josheah , head of rooms, in camp he does a great job in keeping the tents tidy and clean, now it was his job to keep the ball out of the goal… he will need some extra training in the last job mentioned J

There was a crushing 0-3 victory for the visiting team of Mara Timbo Camp.

So we lost our first game, but I am still proud of my favourite Serian team.

Michael, Josheah, Osono, Onyango, Murule, Kuka, Daniel, Mutemi, Peter, Killion…. for me you are all star players already and the way to the Mara finals is still open!

Go Serian! GO, GO !

Kristel Ottoy

Jan 2011

Serengeti Gnus Letter!

2011-01-28T08:01:00.000-08:00

December 2010.

Great lumbering grey green clouds, light whispering showers of drifting manyunyu, a charcoal black blitzkrieg of thunder and lightning proclaim the emerging onslaught of heavier intense rain. Swollen rivers and flooded roads greeted us as we descended the slopes of NgoroNgoro heading for Kakessio!

I have for many years, glanced longingly at the prominent kopjes that line the road from Endulin to Makau. Last year I had the chance to take a quick look around. Largely influenced by the fact we saw Wild dog and Cheetah on the open plains. I decided this would be the place to relocate our Serengeti Camp to for the birthing season of the Wildebeest (Jan – March). The prospect of an all weather road for simpler access appealed, some really dramatic storms litter the skies early on in the year. Immediately we climbed towards the crater rim we experienced heavy rainstorms. The rivers swelled and stopped us for several hours on our journey in. The second day in a hard storm caught us setting camp. The truck hampered by sodden black cotton was stuck and took two of the land cruisers in line to drag it sleigh like to camp on every journey. A scenically beautiful site, but we were soon flooded and quickly retreated to higher ground, seeking out our current site. Protected by the hills in the south and a bush-clad ravine slightly raised on harder ground.

My tent is pitched again! More precisely, under a band of umbrella thorn that forms a bay on the southern shores of the short grass plains. The trees discreetly frame my view north to Kimuma. Some two hours distant towards the sunrise I can see a clear outline of NgoroNgoro crater and Oldeani (11500 ft). Southwards the comiphora clad slopes climb to a plateau of short grass, dramatic gorges and distinctive kopjes. Half an hour from us is a view to take ones breath away. A composition of limitless expanse of wilderness and distant hills surround broad the salt encrusted lakeshores lake Eyasi.

Immediately to our west and over the ravine lies a small settlement of fiercely traditional Masai, whose cattle graze in the plains until the wildebeest populate them. Afraid of contracting Mucal Catarrh Fever from the Gnu, they retreat into the hills leaving the open plains to be filled by a flowing tide of wild game. Charming and gentile the sounds of their moonlit dances drift across the air to camp carrying on them the distant roar of a large Lion.

This walking country is second to none, despite not having a permanent river the Kakessio ward of the NgoroNgoro Conservation area is tucked away in the western corner bordering the woodlands of Maswa. Hosting great swathes of open grassland reaching north to Lake Ndutu and the beginnings of the Oldupai Gorge. The broken woodlands and dry river beds provide retreats for a number of unusual species and in the last week we have caught glimpses of Roan, Side Striped Hyena, Wild Dog, Leopard, Lion and Cheetah. Walking with Jackson, Singi and Saibulu I have once again been intrigued by the wealth of knowledge and vital store of bush lore these diminutive and gentile bushmen hold. Dredging up experiences from years of tracking and observation they live with the natural world, traditional cures, wild fruits and hidden caves.

Dry weather followed the initial outburst of rain and though the leading herds of wildebeest drifted in the edge of the tree lined valleys of kakessio a majority fed into maswa and settled in the plains west of ndutu. Recent heavy storms have brought the core herds an implausibility of wildebeest towards us. Last night from the hillside above camp I could see several hundred thousand.

The local dam hosts a single hippo deposed from the larger pod at Losinoni. Yellow throated Sandgrouse (firigogo) chuckle as they flight in to store water in their feathers for onward delivery to their chicks left in the open plains some miles distant. Cerulean blue woodland kingfishers call to each other from the branches of the yellow fever trees. Resplendent startling red Narinas Trogan settle in the deep wooded ravines and large Kori bustards dominate the grasslands.

Flocks of migratory Steppe Eagles float overhead. Pallid Harriers, Auger Buzzards and Bateleur eagles vie for space in the million acres of sky!

The first births are taking place and soon the savannah will be swamped with the frenzied diminutive sounds of young gnu. Struggling to stand, tottering, balancing, skittering, skipping their way within 15 minutes. The phosphorous rich grasses of the plains provide the rich milk necessary for strong bones that will all to soon carry them northwards on their Great Migration. A never-ending quest for grass and water!

Gnu n

A large African antelope with a head resembling that of an ox, short mane, beard, downward curving horns, and tufted tail. Latin name: Connochaetes gnou Connochaetes taurinus

Also called wildebeest, Ngati (Maa), Nyumbu (Swahili)

“It is obvious that you have made an extraordinary effort to create an atmosphere here at camp that is not only welcoming, but also encouraging and energetic in the effort to introduce the traveller to an unfamiliar world, but a world that perhaps represents common origin.”

Ken Krushel, USA

7 days on safari with Hillary and Ann…

2011-01-28T03:56:00.000-08:00

By Daniel Kisemei (Serian Guide)

It was on the 13^th of January 2011 when we went to two guests at Musiara airstrip. When the plane arrived it was very exciting to see the guest I had guided a year before. We hugged each other, had a few laughs and catch ups before we drove to Serian’s Nkorombo mobile camp.

At the mobile camp we always went out very early in the morning to capture the morning light and to find some of the active cats. This worked very well for us though because when we went out we saw several prides of lions, some with cubs and a male with no back foot! We are not sure what happened to this lion but it looked very painful.

On our final day at Nkorombo mobile I spotted a Caracal not far from the camp of which Hilary and Ann didn’t believe until we got closer. We got close enough for them to take a few pictures of which everyone was extremely happy for the rare sighting.

“You are going to be one of the best guides in the world” Hilary told me.

“Thank you” I replied.

That morning we also saw a leopard with two cubs as well as a Serval cat which is very rare. No one was expecting a Serval, it was just unbelievable.

When we got to Serian camp we did the same with the early morning drives as you don’t know what nature will provide you with. One misty morning I spotted an Aardwolf out in the plains despite the weather conditions. Hilary and Ann ran out of words yet another rare sighting.

All these amazing sightings filled the trip with happiness and laughter. When we dropped them off at the airstrip everybody was very very happy.

Important note: Going out in the field you will never predict nature. It can provide you with anything that you don’t expect.

7 days on safari with Hillary and Ann…

2011-01-27T04:38:00.000-08:00

... Visitors of all kind at Serian Camp....

2011-01-21T21:50:00.000-08:00

Early morning, still sleepy, walking in the bathroom I am greeted by a cute bat
and an even cuter mouse.
Needless to say my wake up call was arranged by the noisy hippos down at the
Mara River.
On the little muddy path to the mess room, a jumping frog really wakes me up, how
come they seem to enjoy the wet weather more than I do? A little further down
stands the most adorable dikdik, before disappearing in the nearby bus it stands
very quiet for e few seconds, just long enough to put a smile on my face.
Breakfast is as usual outside on the deck, where the birds are picking away
their fair chare of the cereal, the brave ones even get a sip of juice...

Before the new guests arrive I do a tent inspection, I look out and see the
baboons having a race in who can jump the quickest over the river along the
rocks, up along the escarpment impala's are having a taste of the fresh green
grass ... would it really be greener on the other side?
Tea time entertainment of the day? Some colourful lizards doing never ending push
ups ... show offs!
Late afternoon on my way to the office I discover some fresh buffalo dung, I do
not see the member of the "big 5"club, but I am sure he spotted the Belgian
volunteer.
Just before dinner it's always play & feeding time for the resident genet
family out on the deck.
So even when you do not go out for a game drive and spend the day at camp,
you can still enjoy and observe a whole variety of exciting and beautiful
animals.
But at the end of the day, sitting around the fire, glass of wine in the hand,
my favourite thing to do is to observe an interesting species that comes in all
shapes, sizes, colours & characters, each one unique in its own way... they're
called "homo sapiens"

All the best from Serian,

Kristel Ottoy

Lions In the Thick - By SBJ

2011-01-17T03:20:00.000-08:00

Most mornings I go for a walk with the Scouts – walking here is definitely the best way to see all the wonderful wildlife surrounding Serian – there is something more real about it on foot rather than in a vehicle and it definitely adds an element of danger.

Yesterday I went out - just Siparu with a spear and myself – it was a beautiful morning - overcast but clear – perfect for walking. I was determined to finally get to the top of the ridge that overlooks Serian - I had been staring at it from camp for the last week and wondering what was the other side.

We walked for about ½ an hour towards the Tree House through thick bush - there was a lot of fresh elephant dung and recently broken trees – and my head was filled with thoughts of seeing elephants for the first time on foot and what that would feel like – suddenly there was a low deep roar to the right of us – so distinctively a male lion – just 30 feet from us – I looked at Siparu in total surprise - I couldn’t believe it - my heart was going so fast – I just caught a glimpse of him moving through the bush away from us – and I quickly moved behind Siparu for protection. There was a male lion with 6 or 7 lionesses and cubs – we both started laughing more in shock I think than anything else and in wonder – it was a moment you dream of and I felt elated. We stood there for a long time smiling at each other.

After that we walked up to the top of the ridge seeing warthogs, impala, water buck and topi on the way. I love warthogs the way they scamper away so fast when they see you their young in pursuit. All the animals have young at this time of year, which I think makes it even more special.

We sat in silence on the ridge overlooking the whole of the North Mara and out towards the Masai Mara – it’s an incredible sight – you can see for miles - I felt so peaceful and alive – I could have sat there all day. Later we made our way slowly down off the ridge back to the camp seeing giraffe and vervet monkeys on the way. We heard the baboons calling to each other and saw hippos bathing in the river.

I will never forget this day and the moment we heard and saw the lions – it was an amazing moment.

I never found out what was the other side of the ridge....

THE EAST AFRICAN RAINBOW LIZZARD - Agama Agama Lionotus

2011-01-07T02:14:00.000-08:00

Many times as I sat at the Serian deck waiting for guests to come for lunch or to welcome new arrivals, I’ve watched the Agama lizard.

They are the source of amusement for me, being in the bush you learn to find joy in the smallest of things. Their behaviour intrigued me, head bobbing, dramatic push ups, the way they seem to rush everywhere, territorial displays, occasional fights,( we’d pick sides and have a mini bet as to which of the two would win), and off course their amazing colours.

Aside from their name, and what I’d observed I really didn’t know much about them. I decided to see what I could dig up, here is what I learnt….without making it into a boring Biology lecture.

· They are a social species often found in groups. Mostly a docile lizard except for the cock who defends his territory.

· They reproduce in the wet season or all year round in areas of constant rain.

· The male struts up to her and does his head bob, if she’s suitably impressed she’ll arch her back with her head and tail raised, this gives him the green light to “go forth and multiply”

· If the above is fruitful she’ll lay 5-7 eggs which hatch between 8 and 10 weeks. They almost immediately start eating insects, plants, and strangely sand and rocks too!

· The adolescent will remain solitary for the first two months and by four months live in a gregarious group with a dominant male (cock), several females and some subordinate adolescent males (sub-males).

· To gain territory males must establish a new territory with no cocks or dispose of the current cock.

And there you have your lesson for the day!

Like A Swan - by J.G. Smith

2010-12-26T01:36:00.000-08:00

Like a Swan, Serian glides serenely through life providing guests with an unforgettable bush experience. However, like a Swan, it is paddling hard beneath the water to appear serene to others. The people who are paddling hard are the staff who make everything happen, despite the glitches, that life remote from all the resources that we usually take for granted, thrown at them.

The milkman doesn't deliver the milk before you rise and there isn't a supermarket just down the road. Everything has to be ordered a week in advance and transported over gradually worsening roads from Nairobi - the journey takes up to 6 hours. But things don't stop there, there has to be fuel to power the generator that provides the electricity for the fridge, kerosene to fuel the hurricane lamps, replacement wine glasses for those smashed by a careless hand, washing powder for the laundry and the myriad of other items that make life in the bush what it is.

Behind the scenes there are the mechanics that keep the fleet of four different vehicle types ready and available to ensure that guests get their own vehicle every day. There's the sewing machine expert that can produce anything with canvas & material from a large tent for a mobile camp, unique tailor made book covers to delicate mosquito covers for the four poster beds.

Even more people make sure that the tents are always ready for guests' arrival /return, place the kerosene lamps on the paths to provide a soft illumination at night, plan ever appetising menus, wait on table. Then there are the Askaris with their torches (and more importantly spears and bows & arrows) who ensure the safety of guests as the go to and from their tents during the evening.

Definitely the unsung heroes.

All this is taken to a further level when guests opt for a mobile camp and everything that is made to happen in the main camp has to be faithfully replicated in the depths of the Mara wilderness.

But what would any successful safari be without drivers and guides ? They can spot a twitching ear above the grass at phenomenal distances, tell you the gestation period of the most obscure animal, get you to the right place at the right time to take a stunning picture and make you feel perfectly safe whether you are in direct eye contact with a Lion from the vehicle or making your way quietly on foot through the bush.

Co-ordinating all this is the management, oiling the cogs, placing the orders, paying the wages and meeting the requests - reasonable and otherwise - of guests.

Next time you see a Swan serene on a river, peer below the surface to see how fast it is paddling.

Wine Tasting in the Bush

2010-12-19T00:52:00.000-08:00

By Lara Palmer & Alexandra Ross-Taylor

With the privilege of Nikki Pain to educate, the camp gathered on the veranda one afternoon to learn about and discuss wine. All members of staff became instant wine enthusiasts, even though cultural differences prevent some from dinking it. Everyone had some form of knowledge from being around guests regularly drinking it. We went through the wines the camp offers, tasting, discussing and participating in the “5 S’s”: Swirl, Sniff, Sip, Suck and Swallow. The cooks wanted to know what was the best wine to use for marinades, waiters asked what the best temperature to serve the wine is, the lady in charge of the stores wanted to know what the best method of storage is and the man in charge of the laundry wished to know how to get red wine stains out of clothes.

Some interesting facts we learnt:

• Two ways in which wine can go off, neither of which are harmful to your health: by oxidation and by becoming corked.

o Oxidation: two much contact with oxygen causes a reaction within the wine that makes it taste bad

o Corked wine: if the natural cork is not cleaned properly in the making of it, there could be a bacteria in it that causes the wine to become off

• White wine should be drunk as young as possible; red wine should be no more than 5 years old, unless it’s expensive wine that should no more than 50 years old.

• Temperature to drink wines : 16˚C for red wine and 10˚C for white wine

• Different methods of maturing depending on the grape and the quality and price of the wine. For example, a cheaper Chardonnay is matured within stainless steel barrels and chippings of oak are then added to give the wine its signature oaky flavour, whereas a better quality bottle will be matured in oak barrels.

• Sugar content: Dry white wine contains less than 5 grams of sugar; semi sweet rose has 15 grams of sugar, sweet wines have more than 15grams. The sugar is present in the grape naturally and the quantity in the wine is dependent on the length of time the grapes are on the vine.

• Rose is made from a red grape where the skin is removed from the pulp after 4 hours to get the red colouring

• Cork trees are grown only in Portugal and Spain, where corks have been made for hundreds of years. There were not enough corks produced one year for the amount of wine being made worldwide, so that’s why we have plastic corks!

The wine class of 2010 was a success with participants leaving the afternoon light headed with full bodies.

The Leopard that came to tea

2010-12-11T22:13:00.000-08:00

By Lara Palmer and Alexandra Ross-Taylor

Guided by a trail of flickering flames, our guests approached their bush supper with a welcome of wine and bittings around a roaring fire and settled down under the stars. Suddenly there was a call over a radio and a mad rush of excitement spread through those gathered. We were bundled into vehicles and drove to the other side of some bushes, where we saw her: Zawadi; the famous resident leopard from “Big Cat Diaries”. Zawadi had not been spotted in almost a month until a few days early her paws prints had been found just outside a guest tent, whenever she makes an appearances its met with total enthusiasm from everyone around her.

We watched as she stalked a scrub hare for fun, before her attentions were drawn to our bush supper. We then observed her gracefully prowling towards our fire and candle-lit table. Our chiefs bravely carried on cooking with the knowledge of Zawadi closing in on the smells of roast fillet wafting over the bushing. We sat in utter amazement whilst wondering whether she was actually going to join for us for supper. Eventually her interest was lost and she wondered off into the darkness of the night.

Although Zawadi’s appearance has been the highlight of the week, we have actually had some pretty exciting wildlife encounters. We tracked an aardvark back from sundowners, to the amazement of guides who had only seen it once before. The lions around camp have been extremely vocal and conversations at meals times have had to compete with the roars which have been carried from a safe distance.

Bitings from the Bush

2010-11-23T00:56:00.000-08:00

By Lara Palmer

Serian can offer breakfast and lunch in camp, where one can enjoy delicious meals whilst watching hippos by the river and giraffe, buffalo and elephant on the escarpment, or can arrange for a tasty picnic to have whilst out on your game drive. It can also be possible to enjoy a luxury set breakfast in the bush or along the Mara River.

Evening meals can be enjoyed in good company within camp or under the stars, or set up as a private meal on your decking or in the bush. After a hard day of observing lounging lions, sprawled leopards, playful calf elephants or leaping gazelle an evening at Serian can start with morish bitings around a camp fire as the sun sets. In the past I have viewed meals times as just a necessity to refuel but here every meal feels like a celebration, an occasion to swap stories of the days happening and learn more about each guest’s home country. I have chosen to give you an example of some succulent delights you might find if you joined Serian for an evening.

Some of our delicious recipes for you all to recreate at home.

Vegetable Samosas

Pastry Ingredients
2 cups of flour
1 cup of warm water
2/3 table spoons of oil
Pinch of salt

Mix all pastry ingredients together until it becomes a firm dough. Then roll out the dough into a very thin layer and cut into a circle the size you want. Layer the dough circles on top of each other put oil between each one.
Put the layered dough into an oven and turn every 10 seconds. Remove from oven when the layered dough separates from each other and become transparent.

Vegetable filling ingredients
1 tablespoon oil
1 box of mushrooms
2 onions
3 leaks
1 green pepper
2 Courgettes
2/3 chillies

Fry all above ingredients for about 15 minuets on a medium heat.

Fold pastry around vegetable mix and deep fry until golden brown.

Stuffed Peppers
6 peppers
3 onions
6 tomatoes
Drop of oil
Handful of grated cheddar cheese

Cut the top of the pepper and scup out the inside including seeds etc. Place in oven and bake until soft. Chop the onions and tomatoes and fry with oil until tender.

White sauce ingredients
1 tablespoon butter
1 cup of milk
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon cold water

Melt the butter in a pan and pour in the milk to boil. Mix the four with cold water and then add this to the milk and butter string constantly until the mix becomes thick.

Combine the white sauce to the fried tomatoes and onions and add the grated cheddar. Spoon this mix into each pepper and bake until brown.

Come and join us at "Serian". Http://www.serian.net