Serengeti Gnus Letter!

December 2010.

Great lumbering grey green clouds, light whispering showers of drifting manyunyu, a charcoal black blitzkrieg of thunder and lightning proclaim the emerging onslaught of heavier intense rain. Swollen rivers and flooded roads greeted us as we descended the slopes of NgoroNgoro heading for Kakessio!

I have for many years, glanced longingly at the prominent kopjes that line the road from Endulin to Makau. Last year I had the chance to take a quick look around. Largely influenced by the fact we saw Wild dog and Cheetah on the open plains. I decided this would be the place to relocate our Serengeti Camp to for the birthing season of the Wildebeest (Jan – March). The prospect of an all weather road for simpler access appealed, some really dramatic storms litter the skies early on in the year. Immediately we climbed towards the crater rim we experienced heavy rainstorms. The rivers swelled and stopped us for several hours on our journey in. The second day in a hard storm caught us setting camp. The truck hampered by sodden black cotton was stuck and took two of the land cruisers in line to drag it sleigh like to camp on every journey. A scenically beautiful site, but we were soon flooded and quickly retreated to higher ground, seeking out our current site. Protected by the hills in the south and a bush-clad ravine slightly raised on harder ground.

My tent is pitched again! More precisely, under a band of umbrella thorn that forms a bay on the southern shores of the short grass plains. The trees discreetly frame my view north to Kimuma. Some two hours distant towards the sunrise I can see a clear outline of NgoroNgoro crater and Oldeani (11500 ft). Southwards the comiphora clad slopes climb to a plateau of short grass, dramatic gorges and distinctive kopjes. Half an hour from us is a view to take ones breath away. A composition of limitless expanse of wilderness and distant hills surround broad the salt encrusted lakeshores lake Eyasi.

  

Immediately to our west and over the ravine lies a small settlement of fiercely traditional Masai, whose cattle graze in the plains until the wildebeest populate them. Afraid of contracting Mucal Catarrh Fever from the Gnu, they retreat into the hills leaving the open plains to be filled by a flowing tide of wild game. Charming and gentile the sounds of their moonlit dances drift across the air to camp carrying on them the distant roar of a large Lion.

This walking country is second to none, despite not having a permanent river the Kakessio ward of the NgoroNgoro Conservation area is tucked away in the western corner bordering the woodlands of Maswa. Hosting great swathes of open grassland reaching north to Lake Ndutu and the beginnings of the Oldupai Gorge. The broken woodlands and dry river beds provide retreats for a number of unusual species and in the last week we have caught glimpses of Roan, Side Striped Hyena, Wild Dog, Leopard, Lion and Cheetah. Walking with Jackson, Singi and Saibulu I have once again been intrigued by the wealth of knowledge and vital store of bush lore these diminutive and gentile bushmen hold. Dredging up experiences from years of tracking and observation they live with the natural world, traditional cures, wild fruits and hidden caves.

Dry weather followed the initial outburst of rain and though the leading herds of wildebeest drifted in the edge of the tree lined valleys of kakessio a majority fed into maswa and settled in the plains west of ndutu. Recent heavy storms have brought the core herds an implausibility of wildebeest towards us. Last night from the hillside above camp I could see several hundred thousand.

The local dam hosts a single hippo deposed from the larger pod at Losinoni. Yellow throated Sandgrouse (firigogo) chuckle as they flight in to store water in their feathers for onward delivery to their chicks left in the open plains some miles distant. Cerulean blue woodland kingfishers call to each other from the branches of the yellow fever trees. Resplendent startling red Narinas Trogan settle in the deep wooded ravines and large Kori bustards dominate the grasslands.

Flocks of migratory Steppe Eagles float overhead. Pallid Harriers, Auger Buzzards and Bateleur eagles vie for space in the million acres of sky!
 

The first births are taking place and soon the savannah will be swamped with the frenzied diminutive sounds of young gnu. Struggling to stand, tottering, balancing, skittering, skipping their way within 15 minutes. The phosphorous rich grasses of the plains provide the rich milk necessary for strong bones that will all to soon carry them northwards on their Great Migration. A never-ending quest for grass and water!

 

Gnu n

A large African antelope with a head resembling that of an ox, short mane, beard, downward curving horns, and tufted tail. Latin name: Connochaetes gnou Connochaetes taurinus

Also called wildebeest, Ngati (Maa), Nyumbu (Swahili)

“It is obvious that you have made an extraordinary effort to create an atmosphere here at camp that is not only welcoming, but also encouraging and energetic in the effort to introduce the traveller to an unfamiliar world, but a world that perhaps represents common origin.”

 Ken Krushel, USA

 

7 days on safari with Hillary and Ann…

By Daniel Kisemei (Serian Guide)

It was on the 13^th of January 2011 when we went to two guests at Musiara airstrip. When the plane arrived it was very exciting to see the guest I had guided a year before. We hugged each other, had a few laughs and catch ups before we drove to Serian’s Nkorombo mobile camp.

At the mobile camp we always went out very early in the morning to capture the morning light and to find some of the active cats. This worked very well for us though because when we went out we saw several prides of lions, some with cubs and a male with no back foot! We are not sure what happened to this lion but it looked very painful.

On our final day at Nkorombo mobile I spotted a Caracal not far from the camp of which Hilary and Ann didn’t believe until we got closer. We got close enough for them to take a few pictures of which everyone was extremely happy for the rare sighting.

“You are going to be one of the best guides in the world” Hilary told me.

“Thank you” I replied.

That morning we also saw a leopard with two cubs as well as a Serval cat which is very rare. No one was expecting a Serval, it was just unbelievable.

When we got to Serian camp we did the same with the early morning drives as you don’t know what nature will provide you with. One misty morning I spotted an Aardwolf out in the plains despite the weather conditions. Hilary and Ann ran out of words yet another rare sighting.

All these amazing sightings filled the trip with happiness and laughter. When we dropped them off at the airstrip everybody was very very happy.

Important note: Going out in the field you will never predict nature. It can provide you with anything that you don’t expect.    

7 days on safari with Hillary and Ann…

... Visitors of all kind at Serian Camp....

Early morning, still sleepy, walking in the bathroom I am greeted by a cute bat
and an even cuter mouse.
Needless to say my wake up call was arranged by the noisy hippos down at the
Mara River.
On the little muddy path to the mess room, a jumping frog really wakes me up, how
come they seem to enjoy the wet weather more than I do? A little further down
stands the most adorable dikdik, before disappearing in the nearby bus it stands
very quiet for e few seconds, just long enough to put a smile on my face.
Breakfast is as usual outside on the deck, where the birds are picking away
their fair chare of the cereal, the brave ones even get a sip of juice...

Before the new guests arrive I do a tent inspection, I look out and see the
baboons having a race in who can jump the quickest over the river along the
rocks, up along the escarpment impala's are having a taste of the fresh green
grass ... would it really be greener on the other side?
Tea time entertainment of the day? Some colourful lizards doing never ending push
ups ... show offs!
Late afternoon on my way to the office I discover some fresh buffalo dung, I do
not see the member of the "big 5"club, but I am sure he spotted the Belgian
volunteer.
Just before dinner it's always play & feeding time for the resident genet
family out on the deck.
So even when you do not go out for a game drive and spend the day at camp,
you can still enjoy and observe a whole variety of exciting and beautiful
animals.
But at the end of the day, sitting around the fire, glass of wine in the hand,
my favourite thing to do is to observe an interesting species that comes in all
shapes, sizes, colours & characters, each one unique in its own way... they're
called "homo sapiens"


All the best from Serian,

Kristel Ottoy

Lions In the Thick - By SBJ

Most mornings I go for a walk with the Scouts – walking here is definitely the best way to see all the wonderful wildlife surrounding Serian – there is something more real about it on foot rather than in a vehicle and it definitely adds an element of danger.

Yesterday I went out - just Siparu with a spear and myself – it was a beautiful morning - overcast but clear – perfect for walking. I was determined to finally get to the top of the ridge that overlooks Serian - I had been staring at it from camp for the last week and wondering what was the other side.

We walked for about ½ an hour towards the Tree House through thick bush - there was a lot of fresh elephant dung and recently broken trees – and my head was filled with thoughts of seeing elephants for the first time on foot and what that would feel like – suddenly there was a low deep roar to the right of us – so distinctively a male lion – just 30 feet from us – I looked at Siparu in total surprise - I couldn’t believe it - my heart was going so fast – I just caught a glimpse of him moving through the bush away from us – and I quickly moved behind Siparu for protection. There was a male lion with 6 or 7 lionesses and cubs – we both started laughing more in shock I think than anything else and in wonder – it was a moment you dream of and I felt elated. We stood there for a long time smiling at each other.

After that we walked up to the top of the ridge seeing warthogs, impala, water buck and topi on the way. I love warthogs the way they scamper away so fast when they see you their young in pursuit. All the animals have young at this time of year, which I think makes it even more special.

We sat in silence on the ridge overlooking the whole of the North Mara and out towards the Masai Mara – it’s an incredible sight – you can see for miles - I felt so peaceful and alive – I could have sat there all day. Later we made our way slowly down off the ridge back to the camp seeing giraffe and vervet monkeys on the way. We heard the baboons calling to each other and saw hippos bathing in the river.

I will never forget this day and the moment we heard and saw the lions – it was an amazing moment.

I never found out what was the other side of the ridge....

THE EAST AFRICAN RAINBOW LIZZARD - Agama Agama Lionotus

Many times as I sat at the Serian deck waiting for guests to come for lunch or to welcome new arrivals, I’ve watched the Agama lizard.

They are the source of amusement for me, being in the bush you learn to find joy in the smallest of things. Their behaviour intrigued me, head bobbing, dramatic push ups, the way they seem to rush everywhere, territorial displays, occasional fights,( we’d pick sides and have a mini bet as to which of the two would win), and off course their amazing colours.

Aside from their name, and what I’d observed I really didn’t know much about them. I decided to see what I could dig up, here is what I learnt….without making it into a boring Biology lecture.

· They are a social species often found in groups. Mostly a docile lizard except for the cock who defends his territory.

· They reproduce in the wet season or all year round in areas of constant rain.

· The male struts up to her and does his head bob, if she’s suitably impressed she’ll arch her back with her head and tail raised, this gives him the green light to “go forth and multiply”

· If the above is fruitful she’ll lay 5-7 eggs which hatch between 8 and 10 weeks. They almost immediately start eating insects, plants, and strangely sand and rocks too!

· The adolescent will remain solitary for the first two months and by four months live in a gregarious group with a dominant male (cock), several females and some subordinate adolescent males (sub-males).

· To gain territory males must establish a new territory with no cocks or dispose of the current cock.

And there you have your lesson for the day!